I’ve replaced batteries in my APC UPS, model:
APC Back-UPS 1600VA BX1600MI-GR
1. Battery specifications
Offical APC battery model: APC RBC17
Battery model I used: WP1236W Long F2
2. Battery physical dimensions and voltage
- Length: 151 mm
- Width: 65 mm
- Height: 94 mm
- Total Height (including terminals): 100 mm
- Terminal Type: F2 (6.35 mm spade connectors)
- Weight: Approx. 2.65 kg
- Voltage: 12 V
- Capacity: 9 Ah
- When fully charged, in your UPS, a battery should have a voltage between 13.5 and 13.8 Volts.
- Nominal operating battery voltage (when load is applied) should be between 12.6 and 12.8 V.
- When the voltage drops below 11 V, the battery is considered to be discharged.
However, note that even a faulty battery may show a voltage over 11 V when discharged, or around 13 V when charged. Checking voltage is not the only (or a 100% reliable) way to check if a battery is good.
3. Battery replacement procedure
Video showing the procedure:
https://www.bikegremlin.com/3107/apc-back-ups-1600va-bx1600mi-gr-battery-replacement/
In my experience, the procedure (along with replacement batteries) is similar for most other similar APC UPS models. I would say that older models like Back-UPS CS 500 (white housing) are a bit easier and simpler to open (no need to pry out the plastic front cover as I had to do on the newer BX series (shown in the above-linked video).
4. Aftermarket batteries
In my experience over the past decades, aftermarket batteries work just fine, for as long as you get a matching model. The things to look out for are:
- The physical dimensons of the battery (so it can fit).
- The connector position (so your connectors can reach and connect).
- Voltage.
- Battery type (can’t put a Li-ion battery in my UPS, because the charging and control electronics aren’t fit for it).
If you match those, you usually can go with a bit higher battery capacity (more Ah) should you wish to do so.
5. Using smaller or larger capacity batteries
If you go with a lower capacity battery (compared to the factory recommendation), you’ll get a lower performance of the UPS (depending on the max. current from the battery, you may get reduced max. power output along with reduced battery run-time).
If, on the other hand, you go with a (significantly) higher capacity compared to the factory recommendation, you run the risk of overheating your UPS’ inverter and other electronics. A higher capacity battery, if drained near completely, will take longer to charge, and (depending on the electronics of your particular UPS model) may draw higher current (especially when the charging process starts).
Similar goes for running your PC on battery when the electricity is out: yes, a higher capacity battery will give you more run time, but the inverter (turning the low battery voltage into alternate high voltage) may work too hard for too long and overheat the UPS. This is especially problematic if you drain the UPS with a higher power PC or similar (drawing a higher current).
Yes, room temperature and air flow also play a part here (if UPS is in a cold, dry room with a good air flow, it will be less likely to overheat).
6. UPS maintenance
Also note – even if not using a higher capacity battery, it is a good idea to blow the dust from your UPS on a regular basis, since dust can coat all the cooling elements and clog up air vents on the UPS’ case, making it run hotter.
Hot electronics don’t last as long – both the circuits and the batteries.
7. APC monitoring software – PowerChute
At the time of writing, APC has retired (discontinued) its Power Chute Personal edition software. The current software is called “PowerChute Serial Shutdown” (software folks love acronyms, so this one is “PCSS” 🙂 ).
The new software runs via a web interface – after you’ve installed it. That seems a bit less practical, less than ideal for a home PC, but it looks like APC has some idea of how to make it scalable and useful for larger systems with remote monitoring (there is a buisnes-oriented “PowerChute Network Shutdown” sofware too).
I did install and am using the Serial Shutdown software. It gives some basic info such as UPS load, battery voltage, self-test, energy consumption (and cost when you select your country) and similar. It’s running fine so far and doesn’t seem to hog much system resources.
Relja PowerCutOut Novović
Last updated:
Originally published: